Easter weekend, still: March/April 2013
Of course one of the problems of being on tour and being on holiday
at the same time is that everyone around me is on holiday while I really
do need to be getting on with some work. Part of this work is getting
flyers printed and the posters to the venue.
My maternal grandmother was an artist, a painter, watercolourist,
oiler, pastel maker, portraitist - for a living. Two of my aunts have
made clothes for a living. My mother can draw, her doodles by the phone,
in the days when the phone was fixed, were of the faces and the dancers
from her mind. Turns out Mother's mind is full of beautiful stuff no
matter the brickbats life throws at her. And the drawings were good, so
good you could tell what they were - please bear that in mind. My sister
qualified as a civil engineer, a fabulous draughtsperson, and my brother
can draw, though he doesn't. (More of my brother's legion talent
another time, sometimes it's too much even for me to dwell on). Me? I
have to leave an explanation under an image of a stick person. I
understand the theory - you don't grow up with these people around you
and not understand the technical requirements - but I cannot make
anything look like whatever it's supposed to be. Worse than that, I
cannot even pull something out of my imagination and make it look like
anything others might understand or even simply recognise.
And I've got to make sure the flyers and posters look okay. I mean, we have a great designer, but while Martin is out of contact, I need to sign them off. For
anyone who can make something look nice - not only can I not draw but I
cannot tidy anything up - this sounds like a doddle. But I'm rubbish. On top of the not being able to draw or make anything look good, I regularly leave the
house looking as if my arch enemy from the comic-book version of my life has
dressed me.
As if that weren't enough I also have to get the posters to the
venue, which means driving into central Johannesburg. On the Saturday
afternoon I leave the family in the garden and head off for what the
satnav tells me will be a one-hour-or-so round trip. I've communicated
with Hayleigh, one of the women who runs the venue and she will be at
PopArt to meet me. Perfect. It's yet another beautiful Johannesburg day:
it really is the best climate in the world, and I am driving, talk and
tunes on the radio, heading for central Joburg for the first time
in..... about fifteen years.
As my new best friend tells me which
way to turn, on a part of the journey I actually know - the first
bit - I reflect on the last time I was in central Joburg, long after it
had become something of a no-go area for middle-class white folk from
the northern suburbs, before it became an utter no-no for the likes of
me. I had been heading to Durban with my friend Caroline just after
graduating and my South African aunt had dropped us at the coach
station. She had been very jumpy, the jumpiest I had ever seen her, and
she kind of threw us and our luggage out onto the street and hurtled off
in her dust of terror. It was... out of character.
.
Which is odd, and had been at the time, because the centre of Joburg
is fabulous... if you like cities, and I love cities. I like urban and
shiny and mixed and big and grotty and unpredictable... but not this
unpredictable. The satnav keeps losing its connection to the satellite,
or at least I think that's what keeps happening: big oceans of grey and
silent and asking me to wait while I become increasingly nauseous. It's
the same nauseous I experience whenever I get lost, which is often, irritated at myself for not preparing well enough, as
if more preparation would help - I know it would not - but I cannot help
feeling it might, that one day I will be able to find my way. I won't, I
know that, but still. And I resent Martin, and where the hell is he?
And why should I be dealing with this alone? And why did some man in
Cape Town seem to like me and all of a sudden not? And why was Kate
killed? I would not be in this predicament if she were alive. I cannot
believe my aunt is still dead - she could have navigated for me. Massive,
unrelated emotions start to overwhelm me as the toddler inside
unleashes her fear and fury. None of which helps me get any clearer
about the rather mystical one-way system. I know that. Why can I not
keep a stopper in this and just have a good rage later?
The beginning of the sunset is incredible. There are huge reflective
buildings in the CBD and they are all around me. And people are out and
about. I am reminded of... Harare? Bulawayo? Durban? Nothing as big and
shiny as Joburg, but something metropolitan and African and hot and from
my past, from happier days, all at once great and terrible to
experience. As well as the phallic shinies there is massive urban decay,
gatherings of folk who look like drug addicts or muggers or both. Every
so often the satnav springs into action, only to leave me in the lurch
at the vital moment, like and internet datee who loves to text but won't
quite commit to the date of a date. I need to stop to read the map - I
keep getting onto the road where the theatre is but not finding theatre, as in those fearful, frustrating dreams.
Then I lose it entirely emotionally, spinning out towards the unknown,
panic grabbing and shaking me. No tears, just panic. The story of Johannesburg, the one you
are constantly told about violence, is something I assiduously ignore
and I am furious with myself that I am now so afraid. Kate would not
have been this afraid: she was so much braver than I. Damn her and her
stupid bravery.
I do stop, I look at my map. The dark is
moving in. I am aware that I look exactly what I am: a lost foreigner, or worse, a tourist.
Not wanting to stop for too long, I pull out, starting to worry that my
driving is less than it should be, if I'm not shot for my car and laptop
then I'll kill someone inadvertently, driving into the sun, looking at
street names, mowing them down, a casual, inconsequential obstacle to and in my panic. It's at least half an hour before I officially
invite defeat into the passenger seat and start to read the runes for
indications of how to get home. Quickly I find myself on the new
multicoloured Mandela bridge speeding out of town towards more familiar
territory.
Arriving home I casually drop into the conversation
that I have, actually, failed to deliver the posters. There's lots of
looking at watches and asking where I've been. I am determined not to worry my mother, but I am also determined not to
cry, not to rage, not to make the next half hour about my inadequacies
and their attached fury. This has not been the end of the world. And
from the wreckage of my crazy hour and a half I salvage dignity,
magnanimity and another lovely evening with my beautiful family. This has been, finally, about my being able, in the end, to contain my emotions - about which no one is more surprised than me. And obvioulsy, but no less surprisingly, nobody has died, as my sister used to say, about fuss and nonsense in her daily work.
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